Use 3 each side of the 12mm x 90mm long button head bolts to bolt the bracket in. The top bolt goes in easier if you swivel the knuckle to full lock as shown. Torque these three bolts down to 102 Nm or 75 ft. lbs after applying Loctite. Make sure you have replaced the ABS sensor back into place if so equipped before installing this bracket.
Place the anti rattle clips in which clip into the bracket as shown. The pad have no inner and outer so you just drop them in pushing one end hard into the clip and locating slot and then hinging in the other end. You will need to raise the anti rattle clip end up as you do this. Place the brake line on the caliper as shown with a copper washer each side of the end. Place rotor on to the hub with the slots leaning forward at the top. Brembo mention it this way. "The discs should be installed such that the end of the slot nearest the outer edge of the disc contacts the pad first" Slide the caliper over the rotor ( making sure the bleed nipple is at the top which will be the opposite to the L and R marking as the BA has them on the front of the rotor ) which is easier if you hinge it in from the bottom first. Line up the caliper mount hole in front of the spacers and then bolt into place using the cap screws with Loctite. Torque to 110 Nm or 81 ft. lbs. Make sure there is some clearance between the caliper and the hub bracket mount. This has shown up on a few early examples but I have designed the new brackets with more clearance. Skim some off the flat portions of the caliper or the bracket to gives clearance.
With the provided stainless brake line brackets you can either attached it to the inner wheel well with two self tappers in the holes provided in the bracket or what I did was drill a 8mm hole between them offset a few millimeters to he outside so that the original bolt and thread hole in the frame can be used. When removing the old flex line do not use too much force on the flare spanner as it will round the nipple. I find it easier to break it loose using a tight Vice Grip and given a quick hit with a rubber mallet. I ended installing the bracket so it was horizontal and made sure that the braided line was looped towards the back so it does not interfere with any suspension components. They are made 3" longer than stock to suit those that are lifted or use swaybar disconnects. Those with more than 4" of lift can even place the retaining brackets lower down on the frame for even more slack. Place the brake line clips into position and then screw in the hard line. Hold the braided line with a spanner as well to prevent it turning and it will then hold the line loop in a position you want.
Next is bleeding which can be performed manually or with the use of power equipment in the usual way. If bleeding manually, DO NOT pump the brake pedal to build pressure in the system before cracking the bleed screws loose. This method is sure to aerate the fluid making it nearly impossible to remove all the trapped air. The sequence should be; open bleeder, depress brake pedal slowly till some resistance is felt, lock the bleeder, raise the pedal, wait 2-3 seconds for the master cylinder to recover and repeat the process until only clean fluid without air bubbles is emitted from the bleed screws. Be sure to closely watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, never allowing it to empty, introducing air into the system. I prefer to flush the whole system so you do not have a mixture of old and new in the system. Always start at the rear the longest line distance from the master and work to the closest. You might also want to considered fitting an adjustable proportioning valve to get the utmost from your new brake setup too. They are available from here. The brakes will respond better to more fluid pressure to the front and fitting one like this will give you the best possible braking in all situations.
The old rotor verses new and a very full looking 16" rim.
Check all bolt connections, make sure mounting bolts and rotor bolts are properly secured, that brake pads are properly secured by retaining clips, that master cylinders and brake pedals are working properly, that brakes are properly bled with plenty of fluid, and that proper engagement of brakes occur when pedal is depressed. It is important to properly bed or seat-in new pads on their rotors. The rotors are zinc plated and will not function at peak efficiency until the plating is worn away from the friction surfaces. You will have a lower and soft pedal until both the rotor and pads have been completely bedded in.
To break in the pads, in a safe location, make a series of gentle stops from low speed. Start at around 15 kph/10 mph to prove that the system is functioning properly. Gradually work up to 30 kph/20 mph and 50 kph/30 mph again with gentle stops. Gradually work up to harder stops and higher speeds bringing the pads up to their upper operating temperature. If brake fade is experienced at any time the system should be cooled immediately. Drive at moderate speeds to cool the pads, do not apply the brakes during this process if possible. After initial cooling in this manner, the vehicle should be parked so that the pads can return to ambient temperature. This completes the heat cycle and will ensure minimal pad wear and maximum pad friction.
All new iron rotors should also be bedded-in before being used under normal conditions. Proper bedding-in will prepare the rotor surface, prolong the rotor's life and make it more resistant to thermal checking or cracking under severe braking conditions. The best practice is to use old pads while doing this and vice and versa but this is not possible after a brake conversion such as this. This is not cause for concern so break in the pads as told above and then proceed onto the rotors as follows. Make sure that the rotor surfaces are free from oils, grease and brake fluid. Run vehicle up to speed ( 80-100 kph/50-60 mph ) and make several ( 10 - 12 ) medium brake applications ( slow down to 30 kph/20 mph ), do not come to a complete stop, to heat up the rotor slowly. This will help reduce the chance of thermal shock caused by uneven heating of the rotor. Park the car and allow the brakes to cool completely( preferably overnight ). While driving the vehicle to where it will be parked, use the brakes as little as possible. When you need to stop the vehicle, get off the brakes just before the car stops and allow it to roll a foot or two before stopping completely. Do not hold brakes on after performing the bedding-in procedure until cooling is completed. This will avoid “hot spotting” or uneven cooling which can damage the rotor. Braking will continue to improve for the first 200-300 km/miles. Remember though that highway distance does not count in breaking in the rotors and pads and improvement you get but heavy city stop/start does.
I found the supplied Police pads work extremely well in emergency braking where they really bite as they need some heat to work their best. But for day to day they lack a little pedal feel so running standard BA pads and or non slotted rotors would give better low pedal pressure feel and bite. Might be something that could be changed at time of ordering?
Those in Melbourne can have this kit fitted by FMA Car and Truck Repairs in Bayswater if not wanting to do it yourselves. Just buy the kit and bring it to Peter after making a booking on Ph.9761 6120. For those in Perth area, contact Roger Templeton at Only One 4WD, 10 Alba Rise Ocean reef, WA. 6027. Ph. 0432 675 412.
I am in no way affiliated with the company that now produces these brake kits and will not be held responsible in anyway for them or any subsequent changes that may have been made.